Is that bread and butter pudding? This is the question that arises when Western visitors approach the buffet table at their hotel in Oman. Even 5-star hotel buffets invariably include a large dish of hot milky-looking pudding lurking amongst the pastries and other exotic desserts.
Um Ali
It is Um Ali which is indeed an Arabic version of this traditional British pudding. But it is definitely more exciting, being a mixture of nuts, raisins and spices combined with a sweet pastry base rather than mere bread. And like many of the dishes served in Oman, it is quite delicious.
Although American and European fast-food outlets have arrived in Oman’s major towns, trying traditional Omani cuisine is a highlight of any visit. Having been on one of the world’s busiest trading routes for centuries, it is hardly surprising that spices - cardamon, cinnamon, cumin, turmeric, saffron - are very much part of everyday cooking there.
Subtle Flavours
However the aim is to create flavours that are subtle rather than hot and spicy. Meat, including goat (but not pork for religious reasons), is marinated before being roasted, baked or grilled and usually served with rice and a simple salad.
A huge variety of fish is available too. Over 80 different types are caught by the fishermen who sell their catches in Muscat fish market. Vegetables in Oman are grown inland around Nizwa.
Buffet Meals in 5-Star Hotels
The buffet meals which the top 5-star hotels in Oman, as well as less luxurious ones, invariably offer are sumptuous affairs. Starters include dishes like fattoush (a mixture of peppers, cucumber, onion and tomato), tabbouleh (cracked wheat, tomato, cucumber, onions and mint) and aubergine-based dips like mutabal and babaganoush.
For the main course, there will be a choice of hot meats, fish and vegetables, mostly steamed. Desserts include fruit salads, sweet honey and nut pastries and, of course, Um Ali.
Less formal fare - and inexpensive - includes shawarmas (lamb, chicken or vegetables in a wrap made from fava beans).
Fresh Fruit Juices
To drink with meals, fresh fruit juices are extremely refreshing when outside temperatures are high. In particular, fruit cocktails come an exotic mixture of fruits such as pomegranate, pineapple and mango. Alcohol is only available in the main hotels and some restaurants.
The serving of traditional coffee - kahwa - is a ritual. Brewed with a dash of cardamom and saffron, it is always drunk black without sugar but accompanied by local dates of which there are a huge variety. You drink it from a tiny cup - three being the polite number to accept before shaking it to show you have had enough.
Another treat, usually served before coffee in Omani homes, is halwa. a sticky jelly-like sweet made from eggs, honey and almonds, flavoured with cardamom.
Shisha or Hookah Water Pipe
After a meal, another tradition is to relax over a shisha or hookah - water pipe. Restaurants offer various fruity flavours which combined with the water soften the taste of the smoke - but, beware, they don’t weaken the effect of the tobacco.
Even though few tourists need to shop for food to cater for themselves while on holiday in Oman, it is entertaining to visit places like the Mutrah fish market in Muscat and the spice souk in Nizwa which offers an amazing selection, but though plentiful they are not particularly cheap.
Omani produce and food whether served and eaten in a 5-star hotel buffet, in a local restaurant or simply viewed at a market will undoubtedly prove to be one of the most memorable experiences of any visit to this relaxed Arabic country.
Gillian Thomas - Having left the BBC's Paris news office to return to England and get married over 20 years ago, I have freelanced as a journalist ever ...
