At the market, farmers dressed in dishdashas (flowing white tunics) and kumahs (pill-box hats) lead their often unruly cows, goats and sheep around a ring lined with prospective buyers, all negotiating prices at the tops of their voices. It is fascinating to see, a glimpse of real Omani life, but you need to arrive early as the amrket begins to wind down around 10am.
Day-trip From Muscat
Nizwa can be visited on a day-trip from Muscat, the capital of Oman, which is 110 miles away along a quiet motorway which runs through mountain scenery that becomes more and more rugged and dramatic all the way.
It was the country’s capital for around 400 years from the mid 8th century and became a centre of learning and enlightenment. The current ruling dynasty of Al Busaidi sultans moved the capital permanently to Muscat when they united the country during the 18th century.
Several Souks
In addition to the Friday open-air cattle market, Nizwa has several covered souks each selling different things - fish, vegetables, spices, handicrafts and, in particular, silverwork.
Silver has long been used in Oman not only for things like necklaces, rings and bracelets but also to decorate weapons and household objects, so there is a huge range to choose from. Prices, both for antiques and new items, are often lower in Nizwa than in Muscat, especially as it is traditional haggle over prices.
Nizwa’s Souks
Nizwa’s souks huddle along alleyways in the oldest part of the town where several crumbling mud houses, some dating back to medieval times, are being restored. Beside them, overlooking the town centre is a 17th-century fort and an elegant mosque with a blue and gold dome.
Nizwa Fort
Now carefully restored, the Nizwa fort is dominated by a huge open citadel with crenellated walls from which 23 cannons point out. A climb of 39 steps to the top is rewarded by views over date palm plantations and green wadis (dry river beds) to the distant hillsides of the Jebel Akhdar mountains which are dotted with ancient fortifications and watchtowers.
The interior of the fort, formerly the prison area, houses an exhibition which vividly portrays Oman’s history and culture, including Islam, castles, other forts and local crafts.
Golden Tulip Hotel
To stay in the area, the 4-star Golden Tulip Nizwa hotel is situated in landscaped gardens 11 miles away on the main road to Muscat. Its 40 rooms surround a pool set in landscaped gardens with views of the Hajor mountain range. It has a restaurant and night club.
To explore the area at greater length, several itineraries that combine Nizwa with ancient villages, wadis and desert are on offer through travel agencies
So tempting as it is to laze by the pool at one of Muscat’s luxurious 5-star hotels, it would be a pity not to go further afield to get a wider experience of Oman and its dramatic scenery.
Gillian Thomas - Having left the BBC's Paris news office to return to England and get married over 20 years ago, I have freelanced as a journalist ever ...
